Short answer
Keep a wet edge: work in manageable sections, roll from the unpainted area back into wet paint, and stop only at corners, windows and doors. Use enough paint, light pressure, a quality cover with beveled ends, and the right nap for the surface. Do not go back over paint that has started to dry.
Which kind of mark is it?
| What you see | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Stripes of darker or shinier paint, a roller width apart | Lap marks: rolling over paint that started to dry | Wet edge, wet to dry, smaller sections |
| Thin raised lines along each pass | Ridges from the roller ends | Lighter pressure, less paint, beveled cover |
| Bumpy, orange peel texture | Nap too long for the surface, or paint overworked | Thinner nap; fewer passes |
| Bare or thin patches | Rolling too dry, or nap too short for texture | Reload sooner; longer nap |
| Patchy sheen on a porous surface | Uneven absorption | Prime or seal first |
The fixes, step by step
Control the drying
Avoid direct sun and wind, which Benjamin Moore lists as causes of lap marks. Indoors, keep the room at a moderate temperature and avoid fans blowing on the wall while you roll.
Prime porous surfaces
Benjamin Moore recommends a primer or sealer on very porous surfaces to create uniform porosity, so the paint does not flash dry in patches.
Work in manageable sections
Pick a section you can finish while its edges are still wet, roughly floor to ceiling and a few feet wide.
Roll wet to dry
Start each load in the unpainted area and roll back into the wet edge, as Benjamin Moore advises.
Plan your stops
Break only at natural interruptions such as a corner, window or door. Cut in the next section while the wall is still wet.
Lay off lightly
Finish each section with light, overlapping strokes in one direction, using almost no pressure.
Leave tacky paint alone
If you spot a miss after the paint has started to set, leave it for the next coat rather than rolling over it.
Most of these steps come from Benjamin Moore’s lap mark troubleshooting page, which also recommends using enough paint, a consistent technique and quality paint applied per the directions.
Already dried with marks?
- Let the paint cure fully.
- Sand ridges and heavy texture lightly with fine sandpaper, then wipe the dust.
- Roll another full coat over the whole wall, corner to corner, with a wet edge. Patching just the marks usually shows.
The tool side
A cover that holds plenty of paint makes a wet edge easier. Benjamin Moore suggests looking for beveled edges, no visible seams, a plastic core and bounce-back. On smooth walls use 3/8 inch; on gloss, a woven cover (nap guide).
Search 3/8 inch microfiber covers
Questions people ask
Why can I see roller marks after the paint dries?
Usually lap marks: fresh paint rolled over an edge that had started to dry, which leaves a double layer with a different sheen or depth. Benjamin Moore lists fast drying (sun, wind, porous surfaces), the wrong film thickness and poor-quality paint as causes.
Will a second coat hide roller marks?
Often, if the marks are lap marks in a flat or matte paint and you roll the second coat with a good wet edge. Ridges and heavy texture usually need a light sanding first. Shinier paints show marks more, so technique matters more in satin and semi-gloss.
How do I stop ridge lines from the roller edges?
Use lighter pressure, do not overload the roller, and pick a cover with beveled ends. Benjamin Moore lists beveled edges as one sign of a quality cover. Lay off each section with light passes to flatten any ridges while the paint is wet.
Does the roller nap cause marks?
It can. Too long a nap on a smooth wall leaves heavy stipple or orange peel; Benjamin Moore suggests switching to a thinner nap if you see that. Too short a nap on texture leaves skips that look like marks.
Sources
Last reviewed October 12, 2026. Specs and availability change; check the listing before you buy.